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Alpine Idylls: Staying Cool in Engelberg and Grindelwald

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Alpine Idylls: Staying Cool in Engelberg and Grindelwald
by Jessica Mordo
Freelance Writer

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In a land of stately, snow-capped peaks and crystal-clear, flower-ringed lakes, outdoor adventure is the obvious headliner. No matter what the time of year, Switzerland delights with loads of recreational activities--it is, after all, Europe's hotspot for a diverse range of sports. Switzerland surely sparkles in the summer--valley temperatures hover around the mid-80's, mountain trails are mostly snow-free, the air crackles with paragliders and bungee jumpers, and rivers and lakes burst with water sports of all sorts. Yet it's wintertime when the country truly shines--the Alps, coated in their glistening whites, tower proudly across the entire span of the nation and beyond, beckoning with thousands of slopes combed for carving, and other numerous snow-bound pleasures.

AlpsWintertime visitors to Switzerland have traditionally opted for the glamorous enclaves of St. Moritz and Zermatt, but the Alps' alternative, unsung heroes lie only a couple of hours away by car or train from major cities, and cost a whole lot less. If you're planning on taking on Switzerland via Zürich, Lucerne, or Bern, consider the amiable resorts of Engelberg and Grindelwald, where you'll find quaint Alpine villages surrounded by mountains ripe with ever-fresh snow.

With the American dollar as strong as ever and hotel-ski packages therefore more affordable than ever, taking a wintertime Alpine holiday means adding more value--cultural, recreational, and financial--to your vacation than taking to the slopes back home. With all its outdoor adventures calling your name, why not hop over to the land of chocolate and cheese for some slope-swishing, trail-blazing, and yonder-yodeling?

Cheese and Berg-ers in Paradise
Once you depart the cities, winding roads take you past lakes, hillside villages, and snow-dusted conifer forests into central Switzerland, where you'll find the sleepy, friendly town of Engelberg. Touted as a great destination for families, the 20-something set, and outdoor enthusiasts, the area boasts a top-notch ski school, Switzerland's biggest paragliding school, and a host of recreational and snow sports. Over 50 miles of ski and snowboard pistes (trails) grace the area's slopes, with the 9,900-foot Mount Titlis providing the most downhill thrills of all. 25 miles of cross-country skiing tracks and over 20 miles of winter hiking trails grace the Engelberg area, and a variety of other winter sports--including snowshoeing, snow blading, telemarking, snow biking, and more--are available, guaranteeing winter fun for all.

skiersWhile Mt. Titlis's trails are on the narrower side, skiers of all stripes will find ample terrain to suit their level of expertise. The mountain also boasts some pristine off-piste skiing and boarding--of course, you need to heed any avalanche warnings that may be posted. A free shuttle, the Skibus, provides the ultimate in convenience. Making stops in town and at several hotels, the bus takes you directly to the base of the mountain.

Up on the slopes, don't miss the spectacular views of the mountain range and valley while riding Titlis's ROTAIR. This high-tech mountain transport is the world's first rotating gondola, and its equal is only found on Cape Town, South Africa's Table Mountain. ROTAIR gets you up close and personal with Titlis's glaciers and glacial crevasses, unforgettable sights that are too dangerous to explore on skis. At Titlis's peak you can enjoy a leisurely lunch at the restaurant, marvel at icy wonders in the glacier grotto, and even pick up a sleek new Swiss watch at the gift shop.

A number of hotels--many of them four-star--provide abundant accommodations in town. Look out for hotels with spa amenities, which usually entail a heated pool, sauna, and steam room, to warm you up after a long day in the snow. Fill your leisure time exploring Engelberg's assortment of specialty shops and boutiques, eateries and bakeries, and the athletic center. The town's youthful sensibility has added several bars and nightclubs to its entertainment roster, ranging from rowdy rock-n-roll alehouses to oh-so-Euro techno-pop discotheques.

For those interested in local history and culture, the Engelberger Monastery runs tours of its beautiful interiors. Learn about the monastery's Benedictine order while examining the beautiful wood inlay works created by a former resident, as well as the gargantuan organ on display in the church. Currently a boarding school as well as lecture-series hotspot, the monastery also boasts a dairy. Those interested in learning how the rich, creamy Engelberger Klosterglocke cheese is made can watch the masters at work in a special display area of the adjoining restaurant. Or simply indulge in a bubbling pot of fondue--made of four different cheeses--capped by the traditional nip of kirsch that locals enjoy after a hearty fondue meal.

Mary Shelley's Grindelwald
Grindelwald, a cheerful resort town snugly tucked into the Jungfrau region of the Bernese Oberland, is another fantastic spot in which to while away the wintry hours. Also convenient to major Swiss cities and a mere 12 miles from the recreational Mecca of Interlaken, Grindelwald has been a spot on the tourist map for a while--and with good reason. The wide and varied pistes, thrilling toboggan runs, excellent hiking trails, and breathtaking beauty of the Jungfrau have attracted travelers as well as moviemakers. The James Bond flick On Her Majesty's Secret Service, the Clint Eastwood-starring Eiger Sanction, and the recent Mary Shelley's Frankenstein were all filmed in the area. Moreover, the Jungfrau's famous Eiger peak has drawn mountaineers from around the world for decades; even experienced climbers have perished on its notorious north face.

Despite its celebrity spotlight, Grindelwald has retained a down-to-earth air. It's less of a charming small town than Engelberg, but what it lacks in character it makes up for in the number of options for visitors. Grindelwald enjoys easy access to several mountain resorts, from First to the Schilthorn, with the centrally located train station offering convenient transport to all. Its 51 hotels, including a bunch of quaint four-stars and an elegant, old-school five-star, provide guests with all the right amenities to make a winter vacation complete, from spas (complete with massage services) to fine dining to shopping. And each night on your pillow, you're bound to find a sample of the rich, locally crafted chocolate.

Wintertime visitors might be surprised to learn that Grindelwald is traditionally more of a summertime hotspot, and up to 30 percent of winter guests do not take to the slopes (the town's string of boutiques and nearby alternative recreation also beckon!). So skiers and snowboarders can delight in smaller crowds and more space in which to carve up a storm on the powdery trails up high. Downhill enthusiasts will savor the open expanses of well-groomed trails, ever-abundant intermediate and advanced trails (don't worry beginners, there's plenty for you, too!), and cozy restaurants and bars situated throughout the slopes serving up hearty lunches and whatever libations suit your fancy.

If the piste thing isn't for you, get your kicks speeding down 21 miles of sleek toboggan runs, trekking on 50 miles of prepared hiking trails, or trying your hand at curling, swimming, or ice hockey at Grindelwald's sports center (located a couple blocks from the train station). Nearby ice climbing, winter hiking, paragliding, cross-country skiing, and other outdoorsy excursions can inject a little adrenaline into your day.

valleyFor a delightful half-day excursion--and a nice break from winter sports--take the scenic 40-minute train ride through the cheese-hut dotted hills that served as the setting for the famous children's novel Heidi, up to the splendorous Jungfraujoch peak, dubbed the "Top of Europe." While its moniker isn't quite accurate, you surely feel like you're on top of the world standing on the observation deck at 11,333 feet--the views truly put full meaning back into the term "breathtaking." On a clear day, looking westward you can see all the way past the Swiss lakes to Germany's Black Forest and France's Vosges Mountains, and to the east lies the astounding 14-mile expanse of the mountain's Aletsch glacier, the longest in Europe. Topped with a blanket of snow as fluffy as clouds, with deep crevasses occasionally streaking the perfect white surface, the Aletsch pulsates with an aura of ominous beauty.

Aside from taking in dazzling vistas, you can bone up on your sciences at the peak's Sphinx Observatory, where scientists have studied glaciers and the planets for decades. Be real cool and check out the on-site Ice Palace, a cavernous structure carved entirely out of the glacier. Strewn throughout the carefully hollowed walkways are sculptures made of (what else) ice, carved by a local artisan and donated to the Palace on a three-year rotating basis. The more adventurous can gun down short, adjacent runs on the complimentary, flying saucer-like snow disks provided by the peak's tourist center. Several restaurants, from take-away café to sit-down elegance, also grace Jungfraujoch. If you experience altitude sickness while atop the peak, unwinding at an on-site eatery with a simple meal is a great (and delicious) way to combat any physical unpleasantness.

This winter, sink your wanderlust into Alpine winter wunder landet. The charm, fabulous pistes, and all-around cheer of Switzerland's gems--Engelberg and Grindelwald--will make your next vacation one to remember.•

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